The country, in one place. Restaurants worth the drive, beaches worth the swim, and the barber who actually knows what they're doing — written by people who live here.
Split → Hvar → Vis → Korčula → Mljet → Dubrovnik. Ferries, swim stops, and one konoba night per island.
Truffles in Motovun, oysters in Limski, a bike loop through Grožnjan, a long lunch in Rovinj.
Ljubljana border to Montenegro border. Cities, parks, two ferry crossings, four UNESCO sites.
A konoba is not a tavern, not a restaurant, not a bar — though tourists call it all three. It's a room, often a cellar, where someone's grandmother is in charge and the menu is written in pencil.
Read the piece — 8 min →When the bura blows, ferries cancel, doors slam, and the locals look almost happy. Here's why, and how to plan around it from October to April.
Read the piece — 6 min →